Vozom Sarajevo Mostar Ploče

Stigao je novi niskopodni voz u Sarajevo.

 

Preneseno sa: http://www.balkanology.com/overview/article_scenicrailways.html

Prije nekoliko godina put vozom Sarajevo – Mostar – Ploče mogali bismo opisati kao skriveni dragulj, s gotovo praznim vagonima koji zveckaju preko visoravni Hercegovine do Jadrana. Srećom bosanskiohercegovački željeznički sistem  je barem djelomično popravljen, ali  se ipak još uvijek  daleko više ljudi vozi autobusima nego nego vozovima. Na relaciji Sarajevo-Mostar vozovi su prilično popunjeni i mještanima i turistima. Iz Sarajeva pruga se penje šumovitim brdima središnje Bosne, ide uzbrdo pa nizbrdo, krivuda, prolazi kroz mnogo tunela, uspinje se preko planina koje su razmeđe voda  između Crnog mora i Jadrana. Tunela je tačno 102. Od Konjica pa do kraja ovog putovanja pratite rijeku Neretvu. Na toj kratkoj razdaljini izmjenjuju se različiti  krajolici, od zaobljenih zelenih brežuljaka, do stjenovitih krečnjačkih litica Hercegovine, posebice je lijepi su obronci planine Prenj na istoku. Nakon Jablanice, dolina se sužava u kanjon, cesta i željeznička pruga stisnute su u raspoloživom prostoru na suprotnim stranama rijeke – ovaj krajolik je najljepši dio rute. U okolici Mostara, a tu se morate malo i zaustaviti i prohodati,  dolina se proširuje i krajolik se mijenja, još  uvijek imate dobar pogled na planinu Velez na istoku. Oko pola sata vožnje južno od Mostara, treba obratiti pažnju na stari otomanski grad Počitelj preko rijeke – kula iznad grada je lako uočljiva. U Čapljini voz staje i treba malo pričekati dok se bosanske lokomotive zamijenja hrvatskim lokomotivama, što se čini kao uzaludan trud, obzirom na kratku udaljenosti do kraja putovanja po tlu Hrvatske. Konačno linija prolazi kroz plodnu delte Neretve, prije dolaska u sivilo luke Ploče. Postoje samo dva dnevna voza na ovoj relaciji. Putovanje traje 2,5 sata iz Sarajeva do Mostara, ili puna 4 sata za putovanje do Ploča. Red vožnje nije baš  prikladan za turiste putnike, posebno zimi kada su i ujutro i navečer izleti odvijaju  u polumraku. Srećom, moguće je slijediti vrlo sličnu relaciju cestom. Između Sarajeva i Mostara, autobusi su daleko češći nego vozovi i pružaju gotovo iste poglede, uz prednosti da cesta ne ide tako često kroz tunele. Svi autobusi koji voze cestom uz jadransku obalu od Dubrovnika do Splita zaustavljaju se u Pločama, a ako vas put vodi dalje u Hrvatsku, možete uzeti vrlo pogodne direktne autobuse iz Mostara prema Splitu ili Dubrovniku.

Engl.

 

Sarajevo-Mostar-Ploče

A few years ago this route could have been described as a "hidden gem", with near-empty carriages rattling through the highlands of Herzegovina down to the Adriatic coast. Happily the Bosnian rail system has made at least a partial recovery, and while buses still carry far more people than trains, the Sarajevo-Mostar trains are generally quite healthily populated with both locals and tourists.

From Sarajevo the line climbs through the forested hills of central Bosnia, using switchback curves and multiple tunnels to climb to the watershed between the Black Sea and the Adriatic. (Get used to the tunnels – there are 102 of them). At Konjić the track joins the Neretva River, which it follows for the rest of its journey. Over a short distance there is a marked change in the scenery, rounded green hills giving way to the rocky limestone crags of Herzegovina, notably the Prenj mountains to the east. After Jablanica the valley narrows to a gorge, with the road and railway somehow squeezed into the available space on opposite sides of the river – this my favourite part of the route.

Around Mostar (an essential stop) the valley broadens and the scenery becomes less remarkable, although there are good views of Velez Mountain to the east. About half an hour south of Mostar, look out for the old Ottoman town of Počitelj across the river – the tower overlooking the town is easy to spot. At Čapljina there is a short wait while the Bosnian locomotive is changed to a Croatian one, which seems like a wasted effort given the short distance to be travelled on Croatian soil. Finally the line passes the fertile Neretva delta before reaching a rather ignominious end at the drab port of Ploče.

There are only two daily trains on this route. The journey time from Sarajevo is just under 2.5 hours to Mostar, or 4 hours for the full trip to Ploče. The schedule is not always convenient for travellers, especially in winter when both the morning and evening trips take place in semi-darkness. Fortunately it is possible to follow a very similar route by road. Between Sarajevo and Mostar, buses are far more frequent than trains and give you almost the same views, with the advantage of not going through long tunnels. All buses along the coast road from Dubrovnik to Split call at Ploče, but if you are heading to Croatia it may be more convenient to get a direct bus from Mostar to Split or Dubrovnik.

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